(Originally Published on December 10, 2015 by Trevor Wilson)
Today I’m going to show you how to create silky smooth and fully developed dough without the need to knead. This post is mostly pictorial, but I’ll include additional written instructions for further clarification of this method. Just click on any picture to see it as a full size image.
And please note: this is not meant as a recipe. This is meant as a method. Therefore, you won’t find ingredient amounts (apart from what you can see on the scale) or fermentation times to follow. This post is meant for those with some experience who’d simply like to experiment with another way. Enjoy!
Step 1: Mix Your Pre-Dough
I call this a “pre-dough” because it includes everything in the final dough except for the starter. So we’ve got all the flour, all the water, and all the salt. The addition of salt means that this technically isn’t an autolyse. But since it’s going to sit overnight for 8 or more hours, it basically has the same effect.
This is why we don’t knead — time will do all the work for us. Time will allow the flour to hydrate completely. And time will fully develop our dough for us. All we need to do is measure out our ingredients and mix ’em up.
So . . .
I’ve weighed out my ingredients and mixed them into a rough shaggy lump. This was a basic white French Country style recipe with a small amount of whole wheat, whole spelt and whole rye. Just to make sure everything incorporated evenly, I first mixed the whole grains with the water and salt. Then I added my white flour and finished mixing.
Note: Only mix until everything is evenly incorporated. Don’t over mix!
While over mixing certainly wouldn’t be the end of the world, it defeats the purpose of our no knead method here. See how I just mixed it until everything came together? The dough is still a lumpy shaggy mess, but the ingredients are evenly disbursed so there’s no need to develop it any further.
Now just let time do its thing.
It’s important that our dough remain cool so we don’t get too much in the way of spontaneous fermentation or enzymatic activity. Too much of either might degrade the dough or produce off flavors. The salt really helps here, but I also use cold water and refrigerate my dough for a few hours to get it nice and chilly. Then, right before bed, I remove it from the fridge and set it on the counter top until I’m ready to add the starter in the morning. The dough will slowly come to room temp overnight and should be nice and supple for you the next day.
Time: This entire step took under 10 minutes.
Step 2: Add Starter to Make the Final Dough
Before we begin here, take a moment to notice how much your dough has changed overnight. It may not look all that pretty — still kinda lumpy, perhaps — but get your hands in there and give it a squeeze. See how smooth that feels? Silky. Creamy. A far cry from the sticky shaggy mess you had last night, right?
Compare theses two pictures . . .
The first is our pre-dough at the end of mixing. The second, the same dough after sitting out all night. Though the dough in the second picture may only look marginally better than it did the night before, take a looksie at what happens when you give it a tug . . .
Look how wonderfully developed and extensible this dough is! I could’ve gotten quite a windowpane had I both hands to use. Keep in mind that this dough has remained completely untouched from the time we finished mixing the night before right up until the moment I stuck my hand in there and snapped these photos. Pretty sweet, eh?
Now let’s add our starter . . .
As you can see, I just slather on my starter, spread it out over the surface, dimple it into the dough, then fold it all up into a nice little ball. Once the starter is all folded in, I then work the dough a bit to make sure the starter is evenly incorporated. If it’s a very wet dough, usually just a bit of hand mixing will suffice. If it’s a stiffer dough, then I tend to roll the dough into itself in the bowl for a few minutes — this gradually spreads the starter thin and works it into the dough.
Note: Be gentle! Because your dough is already fully developed, even hand mixing can begin to shred the gluten matrix.
If your dough is feeling tight or beginning to tear, just back away for a few minutes then come back and start again. Take as many rest/mix cycles as you need to get the starter fully mixed into the dough. Liquid starters are easier to mix in, but even stiffer starters are fairly easy to add.
The only times I’ve ever had difficulty adding the starter are if I’m using a very small inoculation amount, or trying to add stiff starter to stiff dough. If you anticipate having difficulty getting the starter thoroughly mixed into the dough, you can always hold back a bit of the water from the pre-mix and use it to soften up and dissolve the starter before adding it.
Once your final dough is all mixed, plop it into a clean bowl and begin your bulk fermentation.
Time: 10 minutes, if that
Step 3: Bulk Ferment/Fold Dough
No need to go too in depth here. Just do your thing. With that said, here’s some photos of me doing my thing . . .
I think I gave this dough 4 or 5 folds. These pictures were from the first fold when the dough was still young. Strong folds early; gentle or no folds late — that’s my rule.
But keep in mind, folds aren’t entirely necessary with this method. Because the gluten was developed overnight, folds are optional. I include them to help develop the dough structure, but only if I have nothing better to do. So don’t stress about folding your dough — once you’ve finished mixing, feel free to set it and forget it.
Step 4: Shape, Proof and Bake
Pretty straightforward here. Shape however you prefer (but be sure to follow Proper Benchwork Protocol). Proof as needed, then bake away!
And Finally . . . Enjoy!
Cheers!
Trevor J. Wilson
Original comments no longer active.
Comments
- Jan Zavadil saysDecember 20, 2015 at 5:02 PMYour sourdough looks great, Trevor. Did you bake this loaf in a typical kitchen oven such as one you would find in most homes?Reply
- Jan Zavadil saysDecember 20, 2015 at 5:15 PMVery nice sourdough, Trevor. Was this loaf baked in a typical oven such as one you would find in most homes?Reply
- Jan Zavadil saysDecember 20, 2015 at 5:17 PMsorry, I thought my first comment didn’t go through so this one is redundant.Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysDecember 20, 2015 at 6:24 PMThanks Jan! Yup, this thing was baked in my home oven. Well actually, it was baked in a cast iron dutch oven inside my oven.The dutch oven allows you to simulate (to an extent) a commercial bread oven. The hot cast iron acts as the hot masonry in a bread oven, and the lid traps the moisture released from the baking dough, similar to injecting steam in a bread oven. It’s a simple and popular way for home bakers to create high quality bread from their home oven. There are other ways to improve a home oven’s bread baking ability, but this is probably the simplest and least labor intensive. I use it often.Cheers!Reply
- Jan Zavadil saysDecember 20, 2015 at 5:17 PMsorry, I thought my first comment didn’t go through so this one is redundant.Reply
- Bob saysJune 14, 2016 at 8:52 AMHi and thanks for an informative website where I’ve found some nuggets of information which I haven’t seen elsewhere. Great photos and beautiful bread.I have a question relating to the pre-dough in the method you describe here. I have seen autolyse described a lot of places, seemingly with several different ends: developing flavor, making the dough more elastic, unlocking nutrients, eliminating anti nutrients, soaking the flour, breaking down starches to sugars to feed the bulk fermentation, etc. Duration is anywhere from 15 minutes to overnight, room temperature or in a fridge.But how long do you need — with or without salt, warm or cold — to get the health benefits (if its true that there are any), the dough development, the flavor? How much is too much?I’ve seen recipes where a sourdough is given 40 minutes of autolyse before bulk fermentation and/or proofing in the fridge for up to 48 hours. Would these 40 minutes make a difference at all with such a long “wet time”? And if not, how much “wet time” would be needed before the autolyse step is redundant?A blog post about autolyse would be very welcome indeed!Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJune 15, 2016 at 10:26 AMHi Bob, thanks for the great question! Since I’m not a scientist I can’t really talk much about the rate at which autolyse affects all these changes in a dough. I’m not even really sure it’s quantifiable outside of laboratory conditions. Just a simple change in water temperature, for example, will affect the rate of enzymatic activity (warmer water = more enzymatic activity). I agree that this would make an interesting post, but I’m not sure that I’m qualified to write it.But I can elaborate a bit here . . .I’ve noticed a difference in dough quality where — to my usual preferences — 2 hours is optimal, 1 hour will do, 30 minutes or less and I might just skip it entirely. That’s based on the level of extensibility and gluten development that I can feel from the autolyse. And, of course, I like premixing my stiffer doughs because it’s just as effective, if not more so, than even a 2 hour autolyse. Again, this is prescribed to my particular preferences.To answer your questions specifically . . .I don’t know for sure how long you need to soak the flour for the health benefits that are often associated with it. I know with most grains it’s recommended to soak for at least 24 hours. When making bread, however, it gets a bit tricky because the flour will begin spontaneous fermentation and enzymatic activity begins breaking down the gluten proteins. That can cause problems for the dough if it goes on too long. However, those are the exact reasons why soaking grains are supposed to be beneficial. So, considering that, I’d say that a long sourdough fermentation (which is exponentially more active than spontaneous fermentation) is probably more than enough to accrue all the health benefits of a 24 hour (or more) soaking.Regarding dough development, long fermentation, and “wet time” — Whether or not a 40 minute autolyse is worthwhile in relation to a 48 hour retard is really a matter of perspective. It depends on why you’re performing the autolyse in the first place. If your sole purpose is for the previously mentioned health benefits, then no, it probably doesn’t much matter. If, however, you use an autolyse for dough development prior to mixing, then yes, it can be very helpful. One of the primary reasons to perform an autolyse is to reduce mix time. By reducing mix time you reduce oxidation of the flour — oxidation bleaches flour robbing it of both color and flavor.Now you might feel that a 48 hour retard is enough to develop the dough on its own and so there’s no need for a thorough mix in the first place. You may be right when it comes to gluten development, but I would argue that it won’t have as nice a structure as a dough mixed fully right from the start. Even if I were to retard my dough for 48 hours, I would still prefer to develop the gluten right from the start so I could begin structure development through folds before I toss it in the fridge. So the autolyse would help me here. Again, this is a matter of preference — and certainly not something that can be objectively measured outside of laboratory controls.How much autolyse time is too much? It depends on the dough and what you’re looking for from it. If you’re looking to maximize extensibility then perhaps the longer the better. 2 hours might be just right. But what if you’re making an all spelt loaf? Spelt is already overly extensible as it is. Do you really need to make it any more extensible? Might it become too extensible and unable to hold shape? Perhaps you might consider skipping the autolyse altogether for that reason alone.One quantifiable way to determine if the autolyse has gone on for too long is if you start to see any obviously negative effects from it. In theory, a 24 hour autolyse sounds like a fine thing — if a little is good then a lot is better, right? But in 24 hours (at room temp) the enzymatic activity and spontaneous fermentation will degrade the gluten too much and produce off flavors that will ruin a dough real quick. For a maximum autolyse at room temp, I might go up to 4 hours or so. But I think in general, after a couple hours you’ll begin to see diminishing returns. I’m just going off experience here, I don’t have any scientific data to back this up.Regarding flavor, I think it’s a very subtle effect. The more starch that is converted to sugar, the sweeter the bread will be (assuming the sugars are not all consumed during fermentation). I think the flavor is more noticeable when it comes to whole grains. To me, high portion whole grain breads taste noticeably sweeter and less bitter the longer the autolyse. Again, this is up to a point — all the effects of enzymatic activity and spontaneous fermentation happen at an accelerated rate in whole grain breads. A 24 hour autolyse at room temp for whole grain breads is just a bad idea.The way I look at bread baking, every part of the process should have a reason (even if that reason is just enjoyment of the process). I use a longer autolyse most often because I like the extensibility and gluten development that comes with a 2 hour soaking. I’m not using it for health benefits. I’m not using it for flavor benefits (even if there is some). I’m using it to make my dough extensible and to do most of the work of mixing for me.But it’s always dependent upon circumstance. It’s not uncommon for me to mix up a stiff shaggy undermixed dough — no autolyse — and with only a tiny amount of starter, just so I can let it sit and bulk proof all day while I’m out doing stuff. Sure, I’m not gonna get the same kind of loaf that I would get with a wet dough, long autolyse, full mixing, and a controlled bulk with adequate folds. But I’m still gonna get some good bread that will have its own character, and which required minimal effort so that I could focus on other things. That’s an example of process designed for specific reasons.Well, looks like this is practically turning into a post in itself. I know I couldn’t really address the specifics of your questions with absolute answers, but hopefully this helps you in your own considerations of when and how long to autolyse your dough. This is really just my own way of thinking about autolyse. And my way of thinking fluctuates more than I’d care to admit. Ask me the same questions a couple years from now and I might give you totally different and conflicting answers. But this is where I’m at today. I hope it helps.Cheers!TrevorReply
- Bob saysJune 16, 2016 at 7:06 AMThank you for the thorough explanation. Yes, that does help a lot. I’m pretty much a novice at sourdough baking, so I’m reading all I can and trying to make sense of it all. There are so many parameters that it’s hard to get a feel for what’s important and what’s not.You mentioned, What if you’re making an all spelt loaf? Well, actually that’s exactly what I am doing. I’m living with someone who’s sensitive to wheat, or at least yeasted wheat bread, which is part of the reason why I started baking with sourdough.Perhaps the switch from yeasted bread to sourdough will be enough to solve the issue and allow me to add some wheat in the future, but as of now the jury’s out, so for the moment I’m trying to get the hang of baking without wheat. The problem is, I can’t find much plausible information about sourdough baking exclusively with ancient grains – most people seem to mix them with wheat, for obvious reasons.I’ve noticed that simply exchanging spelt for wheat in a recipe can result in a weird dough, especially with long autolyse or fermentation. However, as you mentioned in another helpful post, it may also be the case that I’ll have to practice my skills with lower hydration doughs – I’m working on that now. But then again, a hydration percentage which gives a pretty workable dough with only white wheat bread flour, may give a dough that feels different if using half-and-half white spelt flour and whole-grain spelt flour. And that same spelt dough may change after a long retardation in the fridge. And what happens to the consistency if I mix in some emmer or rye? Oh, all those parameters …Well, anyway, I’ve learned a lot from your blog, especially the articles about technique.There are a lot of sourdough baking tips on the internet, but a recipe that’s “guaranteed” to work in one particular kitchen with one particular starter may not have as guaranteed results under slightly different circumstances.And then there’s what Steven Pinker in his great writing manual The Sense of Style calls the Curse of Knowledge: the difficulty in imagining what it is like for someone else not to know something that you know. Although the tips may be well-meant, they often leave out the most important bit. For example, that appropriate dough handling experience is a prerequisite for success with higher hydration dough. So your post about that was an eye-opener. It’s the only place I’ve seen someone actually imparting this crucial point explicitly.I thoroughly agree with you that every step in the process must have a reason. Being a beginner, one of the challenges is sifting through all the information and getting the most elementary things right before starting to screw around too much with advanced stuff. So I applaud that you don’t just give instructions, but explain the reasons for each step, so that I can judge for myself what is applicable to me in a given scenario.Well, I’m rambling, but thanks again, I hope you’ll continue posting great articles and saying the things most others only imply.Cheers,
BReply- Trevor Wilson saysJune 23, 2016 at 9:37 AMHey Bob, I used to work at a bakery that made 2 kinds of 100% spelt breads. One was 100% whole spelt, the other was an all-white spelt. Both breads were delicious. I love spelt, it’s one of my top favorite grains.But it can definitely be tricky to work with.It’s extreme extensibility can add a nice touch when mixed with wheat or rye, but when it’s all spelt it can be a bit much. Additionally, it doesn’t hold water to quite the same degree as wheat. In fact, it can be tricky to judge when exactly you’ve hit the right hydration for the dough. The problem, which you’ve probably experienced, is that if you mix it to a “typical” soft consistency then it will actually seem too soft by the time it hits the bench. This is true for both white spelt and whole spelt.For me, it was always difficult to mix the spelt dough because it needed to be made much stiffer than you would anticipate. This went against my natural inclination, which is to always add more water to the dough to make it softer. So I was always fighting my instincts trying to make the dough nice and stiff. It always felt wrong, but by the time it had proofed the dough would soften considerably.If you plan on working with all-spelt doughs, don’t fall into the trap of trying to go high hydration. Wet doughs are very trendy right now, and they can make for some great bread. But if you try to apply that thinking to all-spelt loaves you’ll end up with some seriously flat bread. Best of luck!TrevorReply
- Bob saysJune 29, 2016 at 8:49 AMThanks again!Yes, that’s my experience exactly with spelt. With the flour mix I’m currently experimenting with (mostly white with some whole spelt or rye mixed in), 65 % percent hydration makes an uncomfortably stiff dough when I mix it, but it becomes almost too soft and sticky when it has fermented for a while.If I can trouble you with just one more question: How much would you work a spelt dough, compared to a wheat dough?Some people seem to stretch and fold their spelt doughs much more than wheat doughs to try to develop more gluten, others apparently advise doing the opposite and handling the dough as little as possible. The same applies to shaping before proofing in banneton: very tight, or limit handling?Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJuly 3, 2016 at 10:28 AMHey Bob, I think the best way to answer that is first by methodology then by experience . . .Methodology — The way I look at things, if I have an overly extensible dough then my goal is to build strength into it. The 2 best ways to build strength into a dough are by giving it good strong folds and by letting it proof. Folding builds strength and structure, and proofing is the inflation that allows it to hold shape in the first place (plus, if you’re using sourdough, the accumulation of acid during the proof has an ever increasing tightening effect of the gluten).So when I have an extensible dough that needs more strength I give more and/or stronger folds (by “strong folds” I mean building a lot of tension with each fold) and I may let it proof to a greater degree before prerounding/shaping.Therefore, in theory, by doing the same with spelt you are aiming to maximize the dough’s strength so you can get a dough that holds a better shape instead of one that just flattens out.Experience — Experience has taught me that when it comes to all-spelt there’s a serious problem of diminishing returns. When I go all out and fold the hell out of the dough — doubling or even tripling the number of folds and making them super tight — it only causes a minor improvement. Yes, it does add a small amount of noticeable strength. But it’s very small.Is it worth it?I can’t answer that question for anyone but myself. And for me the answer is no. The effort does not justify the return.I do notice, however, a more fair return with tight shaping. A tightly shaped spelt loaf will hold a (slightly) better shape than a loosely shaped one. Again, I can only speak from experience here. But I always shape 100% spelt as tightly as I can without causing any degassing. The small effort involved in tightly shaping spelt justifies the small return in improved loaf height. To me, anyway.I hope that helps. Cheers!TrevorReply
- Bob saysJune 29, 2016 at 8:49 AMThanks again!Yes, that’s my experience exactly with spelt. With the flour mix I’m currently experimenting with (mostly white with some whole spelt or rye mixed in), 65 % percent hydration makes an uncomfortably stiff dough when I mix it, but it becomes almost too soft and sticky when it has fermented for a while.If I can trouble you with just one more question: How much would you work a spelt dough, compared to a wheat dough?Some people seem to stretch and fold their spelt doughs much more than wheat doughs to try to develop more gluten, others apparently advise doing the opposite and handling the dough as little as possible. The same applies to shaping before proofing in banneton: very tight, or limit handling?Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJune 23, 2016 at 9:37 AMHey Bob, I used to work at a bakery that made 2 kinds of 100% spelt breads. One was 100% whole spelt, the other was an all-white spelt. Both breads were delicious. I love spelt, it’s one of my top favorite grains.But it can definitely be tricky to work with.It’s extreme extensibility can add a nice touch when mixed with wheat or rye, but when it’s all spelt it can be a bit much. Additionally, it doesn’t hold water to quite the same degree as wheat. In fact, it can be tricky to judge when exactly you’ve hit the right hydration for the dough. The problem, which you’ve probably experienced, is that if you mix it to a “typical” soft consistency then it will actually seem too soft by the time it hits the bench. This is true for both white spelt and whole spelt.For me, it was always difficult to mix the spelt dough because it needed to be made much stiffer than you would anticipate. This went against my natural inclination, which is to always add more water to the dough to make it softer. So I was always fighting my instincts trying to make the dough nice and stiff. It always felt wrong, but by the time it had proofed the dough would soften considerably.If you plan on working with all-spelt doughs, don’t fall into the trap of trying to go high hydration. Wet doughs are very trendy right now, and they can make for some great bread. But if you try to apply that thinking to all-spelt loaves you’ll end up with some seriously flat bread. Best of luck!TrevorReply
- Bob saysJune 16, 2016 at 7:06 AMThank you for the thorough explanation. Yes, that does help a lot. I’m pretty much a novice at sourdough baking, so I’m reading all I can and trying to make sense of it all. There are so many parameters that it’s hard to get a feel for what’s important and what’s not.You mentioned, What if you’re making an all spelt loaf? Well, actually that’s exactly what I am doing. I’m living with someone who’s sensitive to wheat, or at least yeasted wheat bread, which is part of the reason why I started baking with sourdough.Perhaps the switch from yeasted bread to sourdough will be enough to solve the issue and allow me to add some wheat in the future, but as of now the jury’s out, so for the moment I’m trying to get the hang of baking without wheat. The problem is, I can’t find much plausible information about sourdough baking exclusively with ancient grains – most people seem to mix them with wheat, for obvious reasons.I’ve noticed that simply exchanging spelt for wheat in a recipe can result in a weird dough, especially with long autolyse or fermentation. However, as you mentioned in another helpful post, it may also be the case that I’ll have to practice my skills with lower hydration doughs – I’m working on that now. But then again, a hydration percentage which gives a pretty workable dough with only white wheat bread flour, may give a dough that feels different if using half-and-half white spelt flour and whole-grain spelt flour. And that same spelt dough may change after a long retardation in the fridge. And what happens to the consistency if I mix in some emmer or rye? Oh, all those parameters …Well, anyway, I’ve learned a lot from your blog, especially the articles about technique.There are a lot of sourdough baking tips on the internet, but a recipe that’s “guaranteed” to work in one particular kitchen with one particular starter may not have as guaranteed results under slightly different circumstances.And then there’s what Steven Pinker in his great writing manual The Sense of Style calls the Curse of Knowledge: the difficulty in imagining what it is like for someone else not to know something that you know. Although the tips may be well-meant, they often leave out the most important bit. For example, that appropriate dough handling experience is a prerequisite for success with higher hydration dough. So your post about that was an eye-opener. It’s the only place I’ve seen someone actually imparting this crucial point explicitly.I thoroughly agree with you that every step in the process must have a reason. Being a beginner, one of the challenges is sifting through all the information and getting the most elementary things right before starting to screw around too much with advanced stuff. So I applaud that you don’t just give instructions, but explain the reasons for each step, so that I can judge for myself what is applicable to me in a given scenario.Well, I’m rambling, but thanks again, I hope you’ll continue posting great articles and saying the things most others only imply.Cheers,
- Trevor Wilson saysJune 15, 2016 at 10:26 AMHi Bob, thanks for the great question! Since I’m not a scientist I can’t really talk much about the rate at which autolyse affects all these changes in a dough. I’m not even really sure it’s quantifiable outside of laboratory conditions. Just a simple change in water temperature, for example, will affect the rate of enzymatic activity (warmer water = more enzymatic activity). I agree that this would make an interesting post, but I’m not sure that I’m qualified to write it.But I can elaborate a bit here . . .I’ve noticed a difference in dough quality where — to my usual preferences — 2 hours is optimal, 1 hour will do, 30 minutes or less and I might just skip it entirely. That’s based on the level of extensibility and gluten development that I can feel from the autolyse. And, of course, I like premixing my stiffer doughs because it’s just as effective, if not more so, than even a 2 hour autolyse. Again, this is prescribed to my particular preferences.To answer your questions specifically . . .I don’t know for sure how long you need to soak the flour for the health benefits that are often associated with it. I know with most grains it’s recommended to soak for at least 24 hours. When making bread, however, it gets a bit tricky because the flour will begin spontaneous fermentation and enzymatic activity begins breaking down the gluten proteins. That can cause problems for the dough if it goes on too long. However, those are the exact reasons why soaking grains are supposed to be beneficial. So, considering that, I’d say that a long sourdough fermentation (which is exponentially more active than spontaneous fermentation) is probably more than enough to accrue all the health benefits of a 24 hour (or more) soaking.Regarding dough development, long fermentation, and “wet time” — Whether or not a 40 minute autolyse is worthwhile in relation to a 48 hour retard is really a matter of perspective. It depends on why you’re performing the autolyse in the first place. If your sole purpose is for the previously mentioned health benefits, then no, it probably doesn’t much matter. If, however, you use an autolyse for dough development prior to mixing, then yes, it can be very helpful. One of the primary reasons to perform an autolyse is to reduce mix time. By reducing mix time you reduce oxidation of the flour — oxidation bleaches flour robbing it of both color and flavor.Now you might feel that a 48 hour retard is enough to develop the dough on its own and so there’s no need for a thorough mix in the first place. You may be right when it comes to gluten development, but I would argue that it won’t have as nice a structure as a dough mixed fully right from the start. Even if I were to retard my dough for 48 hours, I would still prefer to develop the gluten right from the start so I could begin structure development through folds before I toss it in the fridge. So the autolyse would help me here. Again, this is a matter of preference — and certainly not something that can be objectively measured outside of laboratory controls.How much autolyse time is too much? It depends on the dough and what you’re looking for from it. If you’re looking to maximize extensibility then perhaps the longer the better. 2 hours might be just right. But what if you’re making an all spelt loaf? Spelt is already overly extensible as it is. Do you really need to make it any more extensible? Might it become too extensible and unable to hold shape? Perhaps you might consider skipping the autolyse altogether for that reason alone.One quantifiable way to determine if the autolyse has gone on for too long is if you start to see any obviously negative effects from it. In theory, a 24 hour autolyse sounds like a fine thing — if a little is good then a lot is better, right? But in 24 hours (at room temp) the enzymatic activity and spontaneous fermentation will degrade the gluten too much and produce off flavors that will ruin a dough real quick. For a maximum autolyse at room temp, I might go up to 4 hours or so. But I think in general, after a couple hours you’ll begin to see diminishing returns. I’m just going off experience here, I don’t have any scientific data to back this up.Regarding flavor, I think it’s a very subtle effect. The more starch that is converted to sugar, the sweeter the bread will be (assuming the sugars are not all consumed during fermentation). I think the flavor is more noticeable when it comes to whole grains. To me, high portion whole grain breads taste noticeably sweeter and less bitter the longer the autolyse. Again, this is up to a point — all the effects of enzymatic activity and spontaneous fermentation happen at an accelerated rate in whole grain breads. A 24 hour autolyse at room temp for whole grain breads is just a bad idea.The way I look at bread baking, every part of the process should have a reason (even if that reason is just enjoyment of the process). I use a longer autolyse most often because I like the extensibility and gluten development that comes with a 2 hour soaking. I’m not using it for health benefits. I’m not using it for flavor benefits (even if there is some). I’m using it to make my dough extensible and to do most of the work of mixing for me.But it’s always dependent upon circumstance. It’s not uncommon for me to mix up a stiff shaggy undermixed dough — no autolyse — and with only a tiny amount of starter, just so I can let it sit and bulk proof all day while I’m out doing stuff. Sure, I’m not gonna get the same kind of loaf that I would get with a wet dough, long autolyse, full mixing, and a controlled bulk with adequate folds. But I’m still gonna get some good bread that will have its own character, and which required minimal effort so that I could focus on other things. That’s an example of process designed for specific reasons.Well, looks like this is practically turning into a post in itself. I know I couldn’t really address the specifics of your questions with absolute answers, but hopefully this helps you in your own considerations of when and how long to autolyse your dough. This is really just my own way of thinking about autolyse. And my way of thinking fluctuates more than I’d care to admit. Ask me the same questions a couple years from now and I might give you totally different and conflicting answers. But this is where I’m at today. I hope it helps.Cheers!TrevorReply
- Erik Frösell saysJune 22, 2016 at 4:02 AMHi!
I´m from Sweden and I love this site, it has given me alot of inspiration so thank you for that. I have been trying to make whole-wheat using the method you describe with long autolyse. I usually succeed with my sourdough bread but when I do the autolyse for 8 hours or over night I often end up with flat bread. I did an experiment the other day and made the exact same recipe with over night autolyse or 1 hour autolyse. The rest was the same with about 4 hour bulk rest and fold and about 4 hours of proofing. The over night autolyse bread turned out flat and the bread with 1 hour autolyse rose nicely in the oven and gave an open crumb. The recipe was an 80% hydration dough with 30% whole-grain spelt 30% high-extraction wheat flour and 40% spring wheat (I think its similar to your all-purpose flour).Do you have any idea on why long autolyse gives me flat bread and how to fix it?Reply- Trevor Wilson saysJune 23, 2016 at 9:47 AMHi Erik, I can’t say for certain what the problem is without being there to see what’s going on myself. When you perform the overnight autolyse, do you first chill the dough in the refrigerator? It’s an important step in order to prevent overly active enzymatic action and spontaneous fermentation. This is especially true when the dough contains such a high proportion of whole grain and high extraction flours as yours does.Additionally, this process increases the extensibility of dough quite dramatically. It’s primarily meant for stiffer doughs to help soften them up. If you’re working with a wet or very soft dough consistency — which is already extensible from the start — then your dough might become overly extensible which makes it hard to create tension during shaping. Overly extensible loaves can’t hold shape and tend to spread as they proof.So without any additional information my only guesses are that it possibly became too enzymatic (if you didn’t refrigerate) or that it became too extensible. Does that seem to match your experience?TrevorReply
- Erik Frösell saysJuly 17, 2016 at 2:49 AMI did refrigerate as you describe and then left the cold dough out in room temperature when i went to bed. Maybe its too long in room temperature any way. I think that making it to extensible is more probable.I often try to copy recipes with high hydration dough from your page and tartine book no 3 with flat bread as a result. I am starting to think that the flour we have in sweden isnt as protein rich as in north america and just doesnt take as much water, or is it just a matter of technique? 75% hydration works fine with our “high protein” flours, 80% is often pushing it to the limit and I have only suceéded with 85% once.Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJuly 18, 2016 at 1:25 PMHi Erik, I think your suspicions are correct. From my understanding, the flour that’s available in Sweden doesn’t typically absorb water as well as North American flours. In order to get dough of the same consistency that I get you will probably need to reduce the hydration.But technique does play a role. It’s imperative that bakers work with dough that they are comfortable handling. The recent trend towards highly hydrated dough has many bakers rushing to make wet doughs that they haven’t yet developed the skills to handle. I always recommend that bakers start with lower hydration breads and gradually increase the hydration as their handling skills improve. It would save many bakers a lot of frustration.My rule of thumb is: If it’s too wet too handle, then it’s too wet.I don’t know if that applies to you or not. But I do agree, that you’re probably working with lower protein flour and should reduce hydration for that reason alone.Cheers!TrevorReply
- Erik saysJuly 19, 2016 at 3:39 AM🙂 thanks! After posting my last reply i read your post on Tartine Envy and recognized myself quite a bit!Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJuly 20, 2016 at 7:53 AMHa! You and me both, my friend.Reply
- Erik saysJuly 19, 2016 at 3:39 AM🙂 thanks! After posting my last reply i read your post on Tartine Envy and recognized myself quite a bit!Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJuly 18, 2016 at 1:25 PMHi Erik, I think your suspicions are correct. From my understanding, the flour that’s available in Sweden doesn’t typically absorb water as well as North American flours. In order to get dough of the same consistency that I get you will probably need to reduce the hydration.But technique does play a role. It’s imperative that bakers work with dough that they are comfortable handling. The recent trend towards highly hydrated dough has many bakers rushing to make wet doughs that they haven’t yet developed the skills to handle. I always recommend that bakers start with lower hydration breads and gradually increase the hydration as their handling skills improve. It would save many bakers a lot of frustration.My rule of thumb is: If it’s too wet too handle, then it’s too wet.I don’t know if that applies to you or not. But I do agree, that you’re probably working with lower protein flour and should reduce hydration for that reason alone.Cheers!TrevorReply
- Erik Frösell saysJuly 17, 2016 at 2:49 AMI did refrigerate as you describe and then left the cold dough out in room temperature when i went to bed. Maybe its too long in room temperature any way. I think that making it to extensible is more probable.I often try to copy recipes with high hydration dough from your page and tartine book no 3 with flat bread as a result. I am starting to think that the flour we have in sweden isnt as protein rich as in north america and just doesnt take as much water, or is it just a matter of technique? 75% hydration works fine with our “high protein” flours, 80% is often pushing it to the limit and I have only suceéded with 85% once.Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysJune 23, 2016 at 9:47 AMHi Erik, I can’t say for certain what the problem is without being there to see what’s going on myself. When you perform the overnight autolyse, do you first chill the dough in the refrigerator? It’s an important step in order to prevent overly active enzymatic action and spontaneous fermentation. This is especially true when the dough contains such a high proportion of whole grain and high extraction flours as yours does.Additionally, this process increases the extensibility of dough quite dramatically. It’s primarily meant for stiffer doughs to help soften them up. If you’re working with a wet or very soft dough consistency — which is already extensible from the start — then your dough might become overly extensible which makes it hard to create tension during shaping. Overly extensible loaves can’t hold shape and tend to spread as they proof.So without any additional information my only guesses are that it possibly became too enzymatic (if you didn’t refrigerate) or that it became too extensible. Does that seem to match your experience?TrevorReply
- Anton saysSeptember 20, 2016 at 4:54 PMHi Trevor,Thank you for sharing your amazing content!I’ve read that commercial yeast remains static within the dough, it’s confined to its area and it feeds on the sugars around it until it depletes them and starves. I recently made a high hydration dough with very little yeast and a long fermentation process, I ended up with a brick that had about 8 holes, which made sense.However, when I add a little more yeast I tend to overproof my dough, I can’t seem to find the perfect balance that will allow me to use very little yeast and have a long bulk/proof time.Is it possible to achieve an open crumb with a long fermentation process using commercial yeast?
Or does it go against it’s nature? Would a poolish/biga made with commercial yeast make a difference?As a side note I’m currently working on a sourdough starter and will stop baking with commercial yeast soon, but I was just curious of the processThanks in advance!
AntonReply- Trevor Wilson saysSeptember 28, 2016 at 5:49 PMHi Anton, it is definitely possible to make nice open crumb bread using commercial yeast (just think traditional ciabatta). Using a preferment can help quite a bit with that, in addition to improving flavor. A poolish especially can go a long way towards opening up your crumb. But you can still get an open crumb even without using a preferment.Open crumb is 80% proper fermentation and dough handling. And it sounds like fermentation is where you’re running into some difficulty. Yeast doesn’t remain static so long as it’s mixed in thoroughly. I’ve made some very large batches of dough using no preferments and just a tiny bit of yeast. I’m talking a 100 pound batch of dough made with a small pinch of compressed yeast. But it needed to ferment 12+ hours before it would begin to rise.Much of bread baking is just trial and error. You may need to experiment a bit until you find that sweet spot that uses enough yeast to raise the dough in the time frame you want, but not so much that it gets out of control. It helps to find a good base recipe to start with, then adjust as necessary until everything works for you.I know that’s not the most helpful answer, but that really is the nature of bread baking. Lots and lots of trial and error. I wish you luck!Cheers!TrevorReply
- Anton saysSeptember 30, 2016 at 3:53 AMAwesome!Thanks heaps I really appreciate it :))Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysSeptember 28, 2016 at 5:49 PMHi Anton, it is definitely possible to make nice open crumb bread using commercial yeast (just think traditional ciabatta). Using a preferment can help quite a bit with that, in addition to improving flavor. A poolish especially can go a long way towards opening up your crumb. But you can still get an open crumb even without using a preferment.Open crumb is 80% proper fermentation and dough handling. And it sounds like fermentation is where you’re running into some difficulty. Yeast doesn’t remain static so long as it’s mixed in thoroughly. I’ve made some very large batches of dough using no preferments and just a tiny bit of yeast. I’m talking a 100 pound batch of dough made with a small pinch of compressed yeast. But it needed to ferment 12+ hours before it would begin to rise.Much of bread baking is just trial and error. You may need to experiment a bit until you find that sweet spot that uses enough yeast to raise the dough in the time frame you want, but not so much that it gets out of control. It helps to find a good base recipe to start with, then adjust as necessary until everything works for you.I know that’s not the most helpful answer, but that really is the nature of bread baking. Lots and lots of trial and error. I wish you luck!Cheers!TrevorReply
- CC saysFebruary 3, 2017 at 2:17 AMi tried this method, but i forgot to leave out starter in the premix! So now the whole dough is in the fridge, i have yet to see what happens till tonight when i get home. Do you think this will ruin the whole process?Reply
- Danni saysMarch 12, 2018 at 12:45 AMTrevor, if I wanted to add seeds to my dough, at which point of the process using the pre-mix method would you suggest that I do that? I am thinking of using toasted sunflower, flax and chia seeds. I did put freshly ground flax seeds in with the flour and salt using the pre-mix method with my last dough and that worked out fine. I want to take one of my old recipes and use this method with it to try and open the crumb.Danni (from TFL)Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysMarch 12, 2018 at 2:08 PMHi Danni, I would either add them in with the premix and see how it goes, or add them in at the same time as the starter. Premix would be easiest, and might reduce damage to the gluten, so that’d probably be my first trial. If it doesn’t work out well, then I’d add them in carefully with the starter — might need to utilize a stop/start mixing technique to keep from tearing the already developed gluten.Cheers!TrevorReply
- Danni saysMarch 12, 2018 at 6:38 PMThanks! Adding them at pre-mix makes me a lot happier. I had a devil of a time trying to get the cranberries and pistachios integrated without tearing the dough in my last recipe so fingers crossed that this works…Reply
- Trevor Wilson saysMarch 12, 2018 at 2:08 PMHi Danni, I would either add them in with the premix and see how it goes, or add them in at the same time as the starter. Premix would be easiest, and might reduce damage to the gluten, so that’d probably be my first trial. If it doesn’t work out well, then I’d add them in carefully with the starter — might need to utilize a stop/start mixing technique to keep from tearing the already developed gluten.Cheers!TrevorReply
- Arlo saysMarch 18, 2018 at 6:25 PMHi Trevor – I love your videos! Thanks for doing them.I understand that this how-to-mix-perfect-supple-sourdough-without-kneading is a method, not a recipe. Sort of like turning a need-to-knead recipe (like the European Peasant Bread where I found the link) into a no-knead recipe. So in this example, would I simply take the ingredients of the Peasant Bread, ignore the instructions, and follow the instructions of the no-knead method? Thanks!Reply